The Market at Cedar Key | Cedar Key, FL

Cedar Key welcome sign - March 2018

Cedar Key, Florida: A Reflection

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Today's post should come as a bit of a surprise, but after seeing the devastation left in the wake of Hurricane Helene, I felt moved to reminisce on some of the good times to help cope with the bad ones ahead.

I'm not one to draw attention to a place at its darkest time, either, for my personal gain; the fact of the matter is that Cedar Key, Florida, holds a special place in my heart.  For years I have fished in its waters, walked on its shores, indulged in its wonderful seafood, shared its beauty with friends & loved ones, and celebrated with its locals.  The town of roughly 700 may not seem like much, but it has an unparalleled culture that is infinitely more authentic (and eclectic) than traditional tourist destinations such as Orlando or Panama City.  Maybe that's why residents of Gainesville often make the hour drive for a quick coastal getaway.

Sunset over the estuary next to the Number Four Channel - May 2019

Cedar Key has a piece of my heart.

For the longest time, I saw the place as a second-rate fishing village where people went when they had nothing else to do.  For starters, the beaches are no sight to behold, the water is perpetually murky-brown, and the town lacks any form of chain restaurant or high-rise building.  It's as if one had stepped back in time to the days before commercialization and was forced to eat at a small clam joint and look at the passing birds for entertainment.  Heck, up until three years ago, the town hardly even had cellphone coverage, much less high speed internet.

Lightning strikes; maybe once, maybe twice - September 2020

As time passed, I began to realize that Cedar Key's old-fashioned ways weren't a deficiency, but rather a differentiator:  if you earnestly want to disconnect, Cedar Key is the place.  People from all walks of life find serenity here, and the only thing that matters is that you have a good time and embrace the eccentricity.

That's what I learned to do, and the place has stuck with me since.

I've seen sunrises and countless sunsets.  I've seen weddings and funerals.  I've seen high tides and low tides.

Most importantly, I've seen Cedar Key bounce back time and again from hardships.  Let's take a look at some of the good times and the bad.

Note that I have also included some commentary from the Sing Oil Sidekick, as he has been one of the friends to join me at Cedar Key a time or two.  His thoughts will include a corresponding section heading and will utilize a different font.

Atsena Otie Key

Atsena Otie Key - March 2018

Atsena Otie Key, formerly known as Depot Key, lies just to the south of modern Cedar Key and served as the original town center with numerous houses and businesses.

Florida Memory - Faber Cedar Mill on Atsena Otie Key - January 1896

The small island still hosts an historic cemetery dating back to the Nineteenth Century and the remnants of the Faber Pencil Company's lumber mill (Hence the name, Cedar Key – derived from the cedar trees used for pencil production.); however, most of the land is now grown over and lacks any traces of human civilization.

Florida Memory - Victims gather around building destroyed by 1896 hurricane in Cedar Key

"The destruction was simply fearful." - The Montgomery Advertiser (1896)

Following the devastation caused by the 1896 Cedar Keys hurricane, the Atsena Otie was largely abandoned with most residents moving to Way Key (modern Cedar Key) as a result of its slightly higher elevation and proximity to the railroad.  The 1896 storm brought a purported record 10.5 feet of storm surge and killed 31 people in the area.

The Montgomery Advertiser (Newspapers.com) - Article describing the 1896 hurricane - October 3, 1896

Despite the devastation, a few structures remained on Atsena Otie Key until Hurricane Easy in 1950 knocked out what was left.  I'd encourage you to click on the news article above to get a better feel for the severity of the "100-year" storm.

Levy County Property Appraiser - Land plats on Atsena Otie Key

By the 1990's the past had seemingly been forgotten and plans were drawn up to construct new housing on the island along with a new dock.  This brought forth immense backlash by the local community and eventually led to The Suwanee River Water Management District purchasing the key for $3.1 million in 1997.  The SRWMD immediately turned over Atsena Otie to the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service to manage as part of the larger Cedar Keys National Wildlife Refuge; the deserted island remains open to the public to tour, setting it apart from its siblings like Snake Key, Seahorse Key, and North Key.

Florida's Nature Coast

Sunset over Daughtry Bayou - January 2007

Fast forward to modern times and we find the calm waters of the Cedar Keys dancing amidst the golden rays of the sun setting over the airport.

As I mentioned above, it's hard to count the number of sunset pictures I've taken over the years; despite this, nothing can match seeing one for yourself.

Abnormally low tide - September 2007

The shallow waters of the Gulf in this region also allow for an astonishing tide variation.  If my calculations are correct, this particular tide cycle in 2007 allowed one to walk close to 600 yards into the ocean floor.  During high tide later that day, sea water was likely lapping against the concrete pad at the bottom of the frame.

Pelicans waiting for fresh fish - April 2011

Of course, it wouldn't be called the "Nature Coast" without plenty of live nature.  The brown pelicans are a local staple, but the savvy bird watcher can also spot flocks of white pelicans during the winter or even catch a rare glimpse of a flamingo.

A flamingo perched off North Key, with Seahorse Key in the distance - October 2023

Although hurricanes are typically thought to just bring tragedy, they can spring forth good as well.  Late in 2023, sightings of wild flamingos began to skyrocket across the Sunshine State for the first time in over a century:  the tropical bird often associated with Florida had been mostly absent from its shorelines since the early-1900's.  It is theorized that the strong winds from Hurricane Idalia swept up several flocks of birds and deposited them in new waters.  I know I certainly couldn't believe my eyes when I spotted the bright pink bird between Way Key and North Key last year!

Flock of birds off North Key - March 2012

Of course, the rural nature of the area also attracts flocks of other birds, including these which I believe to be short-billed dowitchers.

Sing Oil Sidekick:

    One of my favorite Cedar Key activities is renting kayaks from the "beach" to go explore the islands. The first time, we paddled out to Atsena Otie Key to check out the ruins of the pencil factory. We didn't stick around long because the mosquitoes were apocalyptic! 

    Another time, the surf was too rough to paddle to one of the outer keys, so instead we explored the marsh to the south and east of Cedar Key. We saw plenty of mullet fish jumping as we navigated through the mangroves until the tide started going out. Not wanting to get stuck in the mud or oyster beds, we went back out to the open water and soon had a whole pod of dolphins eating, playing, and jumping out of the water not 15 feet from us. It was so amazing to be that close to nature in a totally spontaneous and unscripted encounter, a far cry from the touristy dolphin cruises from places like Panama City or Destin.

    Another site we visited (though not by kayak) was the Shell Mound. Native Americans piled up discarded oyster shells at a site near Cedar Key, and it is now a popular hiking trail where you can enjoy the nature (and the swarms of mosquitoes) while learning the history of the original Floridians. 

Horseshoe crabs at Cedar Key - March 2020

    One other wildlife encounter I had in Cedar Key was seeing hundreds of horseshoe crabs coming ashore to "congregate". It was so interesting yet odd to see these living fossils walking up out of the waves by the dozens onto the beach. As the waves made them bump into each other, their shells made a ghostly sound almost like bowling balls or unglazed pottery rolling around.

Massive staghorn fern at Cedar Key Historical Society - April 2011

In addition to the wildlife, the small island's tropical weather allows it to abound with neat plants.  Just take a look at this massive staghorn fern outside the Cedar Key Historical Society.

Star Gazing

Stargazing at Cedar Key - March 2020

Sing Oil Sidekick:

    On top of the terrestrial and oceanic nature sites, Cedar Key is one of the best places in the Southeast to stargaze. The skies are bursting with stars, and it is very easy to make out the Milky Way galaxy with the naked eye.  Standing on the shore with no sound but the breeze in the palm trees and in total darkness except for the thousands of stars above is such a surreal and humbling experience. I felt so connected to the Earth yet so small in the vastness of space. Cedar Key gives me a greater appreciation for this little blue dot we all call home.

The Fog

Foggy fireworks - New Year's Eve 2021

During the winter months, Cedar Key is known to receive thick fog where visibility is reduced to several hundred yards.  Once away from land, it can be difficult to differentiate the fog from the sea making travel by plane or boat extremely treacherous.  Dense fog has been known to confuse pilots causing them to crash into the Gulf of Mexico. 

The George T. Lewis Cedar Key Airport (KCDK) - New Year's Eve 2021

The fog is mesmerizing.

The fog is also dangerous. 

Florida Memory - George T. Lewis Airport - Circa 1940's

Sitting just 11 feet above sea level and measuring 2,355 feet in length, the Cedar Key airport is the shortest paved runway in the state of Florida.  There's no hope for expansion, either, considering how one end of the airstrip is bound by marsh and the other is bound by the open waters of the Gulf.

Old Things

Old Gulf gas pump at Cedar Key Marina - April 2012

The Forgotten Coast is also home to numerous forgotten relics:  take a look at this marine fuel pump that bore the Gulf logo decades after the company's departure from the region in 1985.  I believe the pump has since been removed.

Gas pump with 1960's Chevron branding in Cedar Key, FL

You may also remember my post from a few months back where I included this picture of a 1960's Chevron diesel pump just off Highway 24.  It was somehow still holding on a few months ago, but I have no idea where it stands following Helene.

The "Honeymoon Cottage" - July 2012

Although it has since been relegated to rubble, the former "Honeymoon Cottage" long stood as a symbol of Cedar Key.  The house has slowly whittled away following its initial destruction, likely from Hurricane Elana in 1985, until storms between 2012 and 2015 dealt its final blow.

Sunset through the sea oats - August 2012

As they say, flowers die and flowers grow, but the sun is still going to set tomorrow.

The Festivals

Mercury Cougar car showcase - April 2013

Speaking of sunsets, plenty of others have enjoyed the scenic views over the years, including tourists, bikers, and classic car collectors.  It's not every day that you see a pack of Mercury Cougars along the water!

Harpist at Old Florida Celebration of the Arts - April 2013

Cedar Key is also known for its artist culture, considering it boasts multiple art galleries and holds an annual art festival.  It's particularly interesting to see this harpist's "self-service" approach to sales:  I guess she didn't want people to interrupt her tune in order to make change!

Cedar Key Seafood Festival Parade - October 2013

Cedar Key hosts a seafood festival & parade in October, in addition to the Old Florida Celebration of the Arts in April.  Take a look at this float made out of a clam boat – quite fitting for the farm-raised clam capital of the USA!

Cedar Key Seafood Festival Parade - October 2015

The Island Arts "Spiced Girls" eventually upgraded to a flatbed trailer in later years; they always seem to have a creative float design.  In addition to flavor, it looks like this float is bursting with musical talent!  I can see "Salt-N-Pepa" front and center and my favorite Spice Girl, "Old Bay Spice," in the back left!

Independence Day

Fireworks from Dock Street - July 2024

Sing Oil Sidekick:

    My first "American Holiday" in Cedar Key was spent celebrating the 4th of July with friends. Visitors and locals alike congregated at a home for a night of food, fun, and plenty of drinks! I will always remember the beautiful sunset over the marsh, with the sticky heat and buzz of gnats in my ears. All of us were perfumed with the sweet aroma of "Skin So Soft," a cosmetic skin oil released by Avon in the 1980's which was found to "repel the shit out of mosquitoes" as a side effect.  Sure enough, as soon as I glistened with that floral oily sheen, the bugs kept their distance and left me to play cornhole with the mystic voice of Stevie Nicks singing "Gypsy" over the breeze. 

Fireworks over the Beach Front Motel - July 2018

    As night fell and the drinks kept flowing, we moved inside where the host wanted to play a party favorite: Old Maid. We stood around the kitchen island telling stories as we took turns drawing cards from our neighbors. It was a hoot because the Old Maid card clearly had a tear in one of its corners, so the keen-eyed among us could easily avoid picking that card. To make the game even more interesting, I found that I could push any card I wanted to dispose of slightly higher than the rest and my neighbor would choose it without fail! I think the people were way more fun than the card game.

Independence Day golf cart parade - July 2021

The Fourth of July has always brought fun times and good memories in Cedar Key.  The day typically begins with watching the annual golf cart parade through downtown, followed by a nice lunch or ride on the boat.

Sparklers - July 2019

Later in the evening comes supper time, followed by a gathering along G Street or Dock Street to watch the fireworks show over the water.  Depending on the year, there may be an encore performance with sparklers or store-bought fireworks out on the dock as well.  The one guarantee is that there are fun times to be had.

The Blue Desert Café

Allie at The Blue Desert Café - January 2012

"Allie" – mascot of the Blue Desert Café.  By no means was it up to food safety standards to keep a dog leashed up in the hallway that divides the small kitchen, but in Cedar Key, who the hell cares?

Due to her constant companionship, Allie's restaurant will always be known as "The Desert Dog" to some in my family.

This unique experience was curated by owner and chef, Therese Cavagnaro.  When I say that she had a constant watch over the business, I mean it, because this restaurant was truly a one-woman show.  Other than the occasional (singular) waitress, Therese was the only employee.  The food was quite consistent; however, you often had to wait 30 minutes to an hour for it once you placed your order. 

The Blue Desert Café - April 2012

The Blue Desert was the epitome of eclectic:  situated in circa 1940 KY-SO station, this restaurant offered diners the choice of oysters & clams, Mexican & Cajun, Italian specialties, and a variety of pizzas & calzones.  My personal favorite item on the menu was a steamy order of chicken fajitas, but I will never forget the time I ordered shrimp and calamari on a pizza when feeling adventuresome.   I quickly returned to my fajita order on the next visit.

I may have taken this place for granted at the time (and scoffed at the idea of eating there due to its . . . swift . . . pace), but the experience of patronizing a true hole-in-the-wall restaurant like this is hard to come by.  They just don't make 'em like they used to!

Unfortunately, The Blue Desert Café went up for sale and closed in 2017 following the owner / chef's retirement.  While I never thought I would miss that place, nostalgia can be a witch sometimes.

Hurricane Hermine

Courtesy The Daily Mail - Damage from Hermine at Big Deck Bar & Grill - September 2016

Following decades of only minor damage from storms, Cedar Key received its first wake up call to disastrous surge in 2016 courtesy of Hurricane Hermine. 

The Island Room following Hurricane Hermine - September 2016

Many ground level restaurants and businesses, such as The Island Room shown above, were severely damaged from the rising ocean water.  It took several years for some spots to rebuild, but overall, the island recovered.

Courtesy Chas S (Google Maps) - March 2023

There is no doubt that the Island Room evolved into much nicer establishment thanks to Hermine.  The food was spectacular before, but the brighter interior and updated finishes took the restaurant to the next level.  It's such a shame that Hurricane Idalia took the restaurant back to its studs, and that Hurricane Helene dealt a double whammy just weeks before the restaurant was set to re-open.  Needless to say, I think the owners should try for an elevated location next time.

Damage at the Faraway Inn following Hurricane Hermine - September 2016

Don't get me wrong, Hermine caused millions of dollars of destruction, but most buildings survived still survived the storm.  The bulk of effort was devoted to replacing water damaged furnishings, breakaway walls, or lost docks.

The Captain's Table / Coconuts / The Rusty Rim

Coconuts following Hurricane Hermine - September 2016

One building that wasn't so fortunate was the former Captain's Table restaurant.  It suffered a good bit of damage from Hermine's storm surge; however, the Rusty Rim restaurant (upstairs) and Coconuts bar (downstairs) had already closed following a fire in 2014.  The building was demolished shortly after Hermine.

Karl Holland (Florida Memory) - The Captain's Table restaurant - November 1973

Originally opening as The Captain's Table, the restaurant was a Dock Street staple known for its fresh seafood and wonderful sunset views.

Courtesy Cedar Key (Florida) Photos - Fishing Pier & The Captain's Table restaurant - 1990's (?)

It was also conveniently located next to the Cedar Key fishing pier.  Unfortunately, the Captain's Table closed sometime around 2007 or 2008 and the building converted to The Rusty Rim / Coconuts by 2009.

Dock Street

Florida Memory - Dock Street - April 1941

The rest of Dock Street traces its origins back to Cedar Key's days as a railroad town; Dock Street once served as the terminus of the Florida Railroad which ran from Fernandina and opened in 1861.  In the aerial photo below, you can see the original railroad alignment which curved from a North-South orientation along Dock Street to an East-West orientation back toward the mainland.

National Archives (Wikipedia) - Aerial view of Cedar Key - August 1939

Hurricane Easy in 1950 destroyed most of what remained of the old railroad trestle and brought forth Dock Street's appended configuration to shift the eastern end to align with A Street.

Pat Bonish (Pinterest) - Dock Street - Circa 1950's

The old dock with fish houses and industrial buildings was transformed into the dining destination we know today from the 1950's through 1980's, with most structures, like the one seen above, not surviving past the 1985 hurricane season.

Dock Street Depot / Duncan's On the Gulf

Courtesy Cedar Key (Florida) Photos - Dock Street Depot - 2009

The next piece of Dock Street we'll explore is the former Dock Street Depot.  The restaurant, which previously housed The Brown Pelican, was undoubtedly named such because of the Florida Railroad's former terminus just steps away.

Florida Memory - The Brown Pelican & Pelican Realty - March 1991

While I don't remember much about the Dock Street Depot restaurant before it closed in ~2010, I do remember having some wonderful battered french fries overlooking the ocean from the upstairs porch.  The building is said to have been built in 1967, according to property records, and most certainly looked the part for its age.

Soon after the train left the depot, Carlin's Steakhouse & Paddock Pub moved in before eventually shuttering as well.

Corona in Duncan's On the Gulf - March 2020

The last restaurant to take up residence in the space was my personal favorite, Duncan's On the Gulf.  I will never forget ordering a Corona beer with my dinner in March of 2020, mere days before the world shut down.

COVID-19 island checkpoint - April 2020

Speaking of Corona, my next adventure came later in 2020 when the Cedar Key Police set up a barricade to not allow anybody to enter the island.  The rules eventually softened, but I remember live streaming a highly contentious council meeting on the topic in April of that year.

Trout almondine from Duncan's On The Gulf - January 2021

Ugh, just seeing this picture of trout almondine with potatoes au gratin makes me miss it so bad!

Duncan's may have succumbed to the waves of Hurricane Idalia last year (and most recently, the remains of the building burned down just last week following some initial building repairs), but it, too, will forever remain as a cherished memory.

Frog's Landing / Steamers

Courtesy Cedar Key (Florida) Photos - Frog's Landing - 2009

That same fire also severely damaged the kitchen of the adjacent building which, until a week ago, housed Steamers clam bar.  I've heard rumors that the operators of Steamers have no interest in repairing the kitchen, and I'm sure the restaurant is a mess now considering there was a gaping hole to invite the category 4 hurricane right inside.

Sing Oil Sidekick:

      One of my favorite things about Cedar Key is the fresh seafood! I distinctly remember enjoying pecan crusted redfish at 83 West, (now one of potentially three commercial kitchens remaining on the island) and a great crab cake sandwich at Steamers, both on Dock St.

Courtesy Cedar Key (Florida) Photos - Dock Street from the water - circa 1991

The 1991 building began its life as Frog's Landing restaurant which lasted until 2009 or 2010.  I was personally shocked when I found this picture depicting the restaurant's construction, as I thought building codes would have been stricter by the last decade of the Twentieth Century.  I guess it was the 2004 and 2005 hurricane seasons which really changed Florida's mind.  I have a feeling that Helene will join the infamous list of retired storms from those unusually busy seasons.

Eclectic Watering Holes

Low Key Hideaway Tiki Bar - September 2021

Sing Oil Sidekick:

     One of my other favorite things about Cedar Key is its collection of unique bars. To begin with, the Tiki Bar is built out of glass bottles with cement in between them with huge windows overlooking the marsh. Even sitting inside, it feels more like the building is made out of light rather than anything solid. 

    The interesting characters of both customers and staff cannot be overstated! One time the bartender was sporting some unique earrings shaped like female "parts" while she cut off a local from having any more refreshments since he had just finished another stint in rehab. The Tiki Bar also previously displayed a "Tallywhacker," which was the colorful item seen in the photo above.  Sadly, it is no longer on display and the bartender who "invented" it has since moved on to other ideas :(

The characters at Bonish Studio - July 2024

    Bonish Studio is another fantastic local bar full of character(s). The walls are covered with tchotchkes of local history and memorabilia, and the bathroom is even more unique! My visits to Bonish have seen me meet locals from Cedar Key as well as visitors, and one time I was treated to the excitement of a drunken man almost starting a fight on the patio! All of us were watching through the blinds from inside, and one of the proprietors got onto us for not minding our business! Only in Cedar Key LOL.

    The best watering hole of them all has to be the Wobbly Pelican; a semi-local gave me a t-shirt sporting the bar's logo. I asked him where the Wobbly Pelican was so I could check it out, and he told me I would be looking for a long time; turns out Wobbly Pelican isn't real! He had made shirts for an imaginary bar as a joke. I still sport my Wobbly Pelican shirt with pride, feeling a bit like Cedar Key calls me one of its own.

The Island Hotel

Courtesy Cedar Key (Florida) Photos - The Island Hotel

The Island Hotel, another local favorite restaurant, was constructed in 1859 on a small hill in downtown and has withstood many hurricanes over the years.  The 12-inch thick tabby walls were deemed strong enough to house many celebrities, including President Grover Cleveland, Jimmy Buffet, and most recently, The Weather Channel's Mike Bettes during Hurricane Helene.

Florida Memory - The Island Hotel on the corner of Second and B Streets - Circa 1996

Sing Oil Sidekick:

    In addition to the lodging space upstairs, the Island Hotel sports one of Cedar Key's most upscale dining establishments on the ground floor. Here, I enjoyed some kind of fish cooked in parchment (fish en papillote) which was very well prepared! Cedar Key never disappoints on the culinary scene, unless you are looking for a chain restaurant. If you want Olive Garden or Bahama Breeze, you'll have to drive to Gainesville!

Downtown

Florida Memory - Second Street looking west - August 1949

Most of Cedar Key's historic commercial buildings are located along Second Street between B & D Streets.  In addition to the Island Hotel, several of the other storefronts date back to the Nineteenth Century as well.

Florida Memory - Second Street between C & D Streets - 1979

It's crazy how most of the buildings on this block look largely the same as they did in 1979, much less 1949:  the main exception being that the Cedar Keyhole art gallery received a second floor addition.

Florida Memory - Cedar Key Reality on the corner of Second and C Streets - Circa 1996

At the C Street intersection, we find a pair of historic buildings which are captioned as follows:  "On the left is Cedar Key Realty Inc. housed in the historic Lutterloh Store (built circa 1875 and named for the Cedar Key town leader at the time) and next to it at the left is The Island Shop housed in the historic Schlemmer Grocery (built circa 1880, it is the oldest surviving brick building in Cedar Key)."

Second Street - July 2024

Past C Street, we find the Seacoast Bank (former Cedar Key State Bank - circa 1912 / later Drummond Community Bank) along with a few other historic buildings.

Christmas lights on Second Street - December 2018

I will say that there is nothing quite like walking through the quiet streets of downtown Cedar Key at night:  the hum of the occasional street light is met with the rustle of the palm fronds in the wind or the lap of the Gulf against the rocky shoreline a block away.

The Jiffy store (Suwannee Spirits) - July 2024

In addition to the market we will soon tour, Cedar Key is home to two "Jiffy" stores, with the one above being the Downtown location next to the post office, and the other being a more conventional convenience store / gas station on Highway 24.

The Downtown Jiffy houses Cedar Key's only liquor store in a space that feels like it still wants to be a convenience store:  I've never seen a place sell fountain drinks, vodka, and Doritos!  I suppose the reason is because the space used to be a regular c-store with the liquor portion only occupying the small corner storefront next to the ice chest.  Despite it moving, I think children are still allowed inside to buy a soft drink or a snack.

According to WUFT, Suwannee Spirits was severely damaged by Hurricane Helene, and it appears that the front wall was completely knocked down by storm surge.  The owner of the supposed oldest continuously operating business in Cedar Key said he plans to rebuild quickly and "move right in."  Mayor Sue Colson shared the same sentiment with WPLG in a recent newscast as well.

I'm sure many of the other businesses hope to do the same, but some inevitably will not return.  All we can do is hope and pray for a swift recovery.

Takeaways from Hurricane Helene

Cedar Key has endured its fair share of hurricanes over the years, but every time it has built back stronger.  Let's hope that the same can happen this time around while also remembering that Mother Nature is a force to be reckoned with.  If a lesson is to be learned from this and any of the previous storms, it's that storm surge will come again and that modern building codes with height requirements do exist for a reason.  As many locals have learned from Hermine, Idalia, Debbie, and now Helene, it's probably not in their best interest to build back things to the way they have always been; not every lot is lucky enough to be situated on a hill like The Island Hotel.  

Several years ago, the University of Florida created an interactive map showing potential storm surge levels during various hurricanes.  It's quite interesting to play around with the different water levels to see how they compare to the real-life damage the town has experienced over the last few years.

This hurricane certainly came as a shock to the locals (heck, the Cedar Key News called it three different names – Helene, Elene, and Helena – in its September 24th coverage of the city commission meeting) considering how it spun up from Potential Tropical Cyclone Nine on Monday, September 23rd, into Category 4 Hurricane Helene at landfall on Thursday, September 26th is just mind boggling. 

Greg Lovett / The Palm Beach Post (USA Today) - Remains of cottages at the Faraway Inn - September 2024

According to the 2 AM advisory on September 27th, "A NOAA National Ocean Service tide gauge located on Cedar Key recently reported a water level of 9.30 feet above mean higher high water."  This greatly surpasses the recent memory of 5.8 feet from Category 1 Hurricane Hermine in 2016, or the previous (recent) record of 6.8 feet from Category 3 Hurricane Idalia's landfall in August of last year.  I'd be curious to know how modern instruments and methods would have measured the Hurricane of 1896's reported 10.5 feet of surge.

I mentioned the circa 1950's Faraway Inn above along with a picture of the Hurricane Hermine cleanup, but after losing 1-2 cottages in Hurricane Idalia and receiving extensive damage to the remaining buildings during Helene, I'm doubtful the business will survive.

Greg Lovett / The Palm Beach Post (USA Today) - Former First Street cottages - September 2024

The destruction of nearly all ten of the circa 1925 cottages which lined First Street is par for the course considering the wreckage left behind by Helene.  Many of them had been elevated on concrete pilings following Hermine, but that was still no match for the rising water brought in by Helene.  While there is no hope for the 642 cottage which previously stood here (and can now be found a block away at C Street), it would at least serve as some consolation if a couple of these centenarian homes can be saved.

I'll close out this section of the post with a video I found from storm chaser and journalist Jonathan Petramala.

I'd encourage readers to watch it all the way through, as it seems he does a good job of telling the full story of Helene in Cedar Key, including scenes of the active surge and the aftermath cleanup.  I can especially relate to the lady he closed with; he asks her how the community could come together after the third major storm in the last 13 months.  She states, "There's so much we love about this place," referring to the natural beauty and the tight-knit community.

Sunset over the Gulf - August 2022

Cedar Key is a special place.  While it may not look the same as it did in August, or 2023, or 2015, the town will bounce back just as it has after Debbie, Idalia, Hermine, Elana, Easy, and the Hurricane of 1896.  Most importantly, we can still count on there being a gorgeous sunset at the end of the day.

 

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The Cedar Key Walmart

Wow, that was quite the emotional roller coaster for me!  It's tough seeing a place that means so much to you go through such a devastating tragedy, but I've surprisingly learned that spilling my guts onto a figurative page is constructive coping mechanism.

I'm sure some of my regular readers skimmed over some of the word and photo vomit above, and that's okay.  I'll make it up to you by featuring something a bit more along the lines of my typical writing:  a grocery store.

Courtesy Cedar Key (Florida) Photos - The Market at Cedar Key - 2009

The Market at Cedar Key

The corner of 3rd Street & Highway 24

7031 D Street

Cedar Key, FL 32625

Property records indicate that the 5,000 sq ft building was constructed in 1965, making this both the oldest and the smallest grocery store I've featured. That comes as no mistake considering how the rural community lacks the customer base to support a much larger outfit.

Here's a fair warning to some of my readers:  this store is in an entirely different league from a Publix (or even the closest Winn-Dixie before that store remodeled).  I'm aware that it isn't the fanciest place, but for such a small town, it is perfectly adequate.  Having any sort of grocery store is also far better than the alternative of driving 30 minutes to Chiefland!

Hence, the colloquial name for this store being the "Cedar Key Walmart" since it has more items than any other retailer on the island.   Meanwhile, the Dollar General located 8.5 miles off the island is known as the "Cedar Key Mall" for its enhanced selection.

 

Circling around to the front (facing D Street / State Highway 24), we find a doubled set of swinging doors for customers to enter after taking a small step up from the sidewalk.  I presume the outer doors are just closed when the building is locked?

Once inside, we find two register lines perched to the left, along with several short aisles in front of us. 

 

A convenience store-sized ice cream freezer and a pair of single-serve drink coolers are just to the right of the doors, lining the front wall.  How could we visit a beachside grocery store without finding an extensive souvenir clothing display!

The front right corner of the store is home to the small produce department along with the open-faced dairy cooler.  

For being such a small store, The Market offered a decent selection of produce which looked fresher than what I've seen at many Krogers.  I also don't blame the owners for limiting the selection of fruits and vegetables because more times than not I find decaying eggplants and the like at Winn-Dixie or Ingles; "exotic" produce simply doesn't have the same demand as apples and oranges.  I'm honestly surprised to see two pineapples sitting on the shelf.

Milk used to join the cartons of sour cream, hummus, and yogurt in the cooler to the left until it mysteriously moved to the back of the store several years ago.  I almost wonder if that was because the "vintage" refrigerators couldn't keep it to temperature . . .

Speaking of these old fixtures, the bright green coloring reminds me of how Publix and Winn-Dixie used to color-code their refrigerated cases to a given department during the 1970's and 1980's.  Produce was always green; however, a much darker shade from what we see here.

Next up, we'll take a look at the remainder of the dairy / lunch meats / condiments / coffee / frozen foods / produce / deli aisle.  Don't you love small grocery stores; this is quite the grand aisle!

The Market at Cedar Key (Facebook) - March 2024

As a result of Hurricane Idalia, the store took on 4.5 feet of storm surge and was closed for 5 months while the building was cleaned out and all of the equipment was replaced.  Don't you miss the navy and hot pink freezers?  

It looks like the owners landed on some second-hand fixtures from a Dollar General (I think?), which seems to have been a smart move if they put in the effort to roll the freezers elsewhere prior to Helene.

The back right corner is home to the deli / pizza kitchen (the pizza oven is just out of frame to the right).  This store, shockingly, does offer Boar's Head meats as well.

The small meat department is adjacent to the deli, and is complete with its own teal-accented coffin cooler.  It has been ages since I've seen a store use that fake parsley!

Also, take a look at the milk department sign off in the distance – I think that's one of the rare cases where department signage is genuinely needed!

Turning around, we find an endcap case offering warm rotisserie chickens.  It looks like I unfortunately missed photographing aisles 2 (paper products, cleaning supplies, and pet food) & 3 (canned goods, juices, pasta, and rice/dry beans) during this trip.

At least I managed to capture aisle 4, which features household supplies, peanut butter / jelly, bread, cereal, and other breakfast items.

Unsigned aisle five offers baking supplies, oils, spices, and snack foods.

Oh yeah, and beer / chilled wine / milk.  It's hard to see in this picture, but the beer / milk cooler juts out front the back left corner of the store and has a bank of doors facing both the front and right walls of the store.  The photo above shows that mostly wine, seltzer, and dairy face the meat department while beer faces the front of the store.

 

Speaking of the meat department, we'll take one last look at it before continuing on.

Aisle six is home to the remainder of the wine department, candy, cookies, and crackers.  The front doors can be seen off in the distance, just beyond the register.

The last aisle of the store is located in a sort of alcove between the register line and the beer cooler.  This space has ailments for all aches considering it offers water, ginger ale, pharmaceuticals, and the aforementioned beer!

I wish I remember why I took this photo over a year ago; alas, it showcases some old Coca-Cola graphics on the shelves.  It's worth noting that this store didn't offer any multi-packs of bottles:  you either get a 2-liter bottle, a single 20-oz. bottle, or a 12-pack of cans.

It's amazing how such a small selection of health and beauty items can seem like a treasure trove when you have no other options; you certainly take CVS for granted until you don't have one within 30 miles.

Well, folks, that about wraps up our tour.  Despite the store having two checkout lines, I've only ever seen one in operation.  You also may notice that the conveyor belt seen above is backwards from its typical configuration – that's because the belts are covered by a sheet of Formica!

The other register line was just used for additional displays, including greeting cards and pickled okra.

Remember how I mentioned how the Tiki Bartender who invented the Tallywhacker had other business ideas?  Well, one of them was creating his own brand of Bloody Mary mix which can be seen above.

Last, but not least, I couldn't resist taking a picture of D's BBQ fried peanuts, A.K.A. D's nuts.

Following Hurricane Helene, the block wall behind the cashier was blown out from the force of the storm surge.  I presume the water was roughly up to the top of the door frame, rendering The Market inoperable once again.

I also wouldn't be surprised if all of these buggies wound up in the salt marsh following the storm.  Who knows how old these things were, but I was always caught off guard by how small they were and how they lacked a bottom shelf for bottled water, etc.  The worst part, though, was the fact that the short step up to get inside the store prevented you from being able to push your groceries out to your car!

Courtesy Elliott White (Google Maps) - January 2017

In addition to the small carts, The Market had some odd hand baskets that looked more like a shower caddy or cleaning product carrier than something you'd find in a grocery store. 

Nick Anschultz / The Levy Citizen - September 2023

Like I mentioned before, Idalia caused extensive damage to the interior fixtures of the store, resulting in it being closed for several months while a Go Fund Me page was set up to collect donations.  I'd imagine that a similar situation will happen now that Helene has swept through, but the owners may also decide to call it quits after their store, restaurant, and house were all severely damaged by the tide.

Anyhow, that will wrap up my coverage of The Market at Cedar Key, and I wish that my motivation for this post came under different circumstances.  I know, however, that the small town will rebound from this natural disaster just as it has over the last 155 years.

Sunset over Daughtry Bayou - June 2020

Again, despite the destruction, Cedar Key still managed to end the day with an amazing sunset.

Until next time,

- The Sing Oil Blogger